It works like this:
When the "134A" is under pressure, it is a liquid in the system.
Each system has two separate halves, if you will. One half is the side
where the "134A" is a liquid known as the "high" pressure
side and the other half is where it evaporates into, known as the "low"
pressure side. The noise heard when the air conditioner is turned on is
the compressor. It also has two halves. One side sucks, while the other
side blows or compresses. Just like the water in the garden hose, the
compressor will pressure up the liquid side by gathering up all the "134A"
in the system which will pressure up the hose that leads to the orifice
or expansion value, which is comparable to the water nozzle. When the
liquid "134A" moves through the orifice, it sprays the liquid
"134A" into the low pressure side where it will evaporate and
give the cooling effect.
The evaporating liquid now passes into an evaporator under the dash of
the car. The liquid which is now a gas, must also pass the dryer or accumulator
to remove any moisture that would cause the orifice to freeze up and plug.
The blower then blows air through it which will cool the car's cabin.
After the evaporated "134A" passes through the evaporator,
it must then be turned back into a liquid in order to be re-used. The
suction side of the compressor then gathers up all evaporated "134A"
which is now in the low pressure half of the system and then recompresses
them back in to a liquid. These expanded gasses gathered up by the suction
side of the compressor have absorbed all the heat from the cabin which
needs to be cooled in order to compress them back into a liquid. The compressor
pushes the refrigerant through what is called a condenser located in front
of the car's radiator in the grill area (outside air passing through the
condenser does just that). It helps condense the gasses being turned into
a liquid. The more the gasses are cooled, the more heat they can absorb
next time through the orifice or expansion valve. Then the cycle starts
all over again.
So, it's very simple: compressed liquid is sprayed into an evaporator,
turning them into a gas. It is then gathered back up and turned back into
a liquid to go through the process all over again.
NOW THAT WE KNOW HOW IT WORKS, WHY DOESN'T IT WORK IN MY CAR?
Question: I hear something clicking on and
off and it is not cold air, but just cool air coming from the ducts.
Answer: It would appear the "134A"
volume is low and the compressor has no gasses to gather up to send to
the orifice. It will turn on and off when a low pressure switch detects
an extra low condition in the half where the gasses evaporate into.
Question: Nothing happens when I turn on
the air conditioning. What is wrong?
Answer: This problem requires more diagnosis,
as there can be several reasons. It may be that the liquid "134A"
has escaped or the electrical system has a problem.
Batteries:
A battery is your vehicle's storage device intended to supply power on
demand to all the accessories like lights, stereo, power windows etc.
One of the most important accessories is the vehicle onboard computer.
When your battery gets old and cannot hold a full charge of 12 volts,
drivability problems will occur. No different than trying to use a flashlight
with weak batteries to see your way in the dark. You will stumble and
have a hard time navigating your way if you can’t see. A weak battery
will cause alternator failure prematurely as well. The battery will not
accept a full charge and since the alternator does not know the battery
is old and weak, it will work very hard to recharge that battery and shorten
its own life in the process.
Most batteries will only last 5 years before they lose their storage
capacity. A complete charging system analysis will
tell you if your battery and alternator are up to the task of supplying
enough power to operate your vehicle.
Look after your vehicle and it will look after you!
Coolant
Hoses:
Your engine depends on the antifreeze in the cooling system to keep temperatures
under control. Since these hoses that carry the flow of antifreeze to
the radiator, and heater core from the engine, are made of rubber, they
deteriorate over time and can cause temperatures under the hood of your
car up to 400 degrees F. Manufacturers recommend replacement of all rubber
products including belts and hoses at regular intervals. Check your owner’s
manual for that interval or call us to make an appointment.
Our regular oil change includes this inspection.
Look after your vehicle and it will look after you!
Cooling
Systems:
Drive
Belts:
There are two types of drive belts available for most vehicles.
Serpentine type belts are most commonly used after 1987 which run all
under hood accessories with only one belt. A regular inspection of this
belt should be done with every service to ensure trouble free driving.
Should this belt break, you will lose power steering and power brakes.
The battery charging system will stop working and the water pump will
stop transferring coolant to the radiator. Overheating is the result with
a potential for severe engine damage.
V belts are used on older vehicles and are equally prone to cracking
and wear. They tend to be used to run fewer accessories than serpentine
belts and vehicles are known to use several of these. They also require
regular maintenance.
This is another routine inspection done with a simple oil change. Make your appointment today.
Look after your vehicle and it will look after you!
Engine
Fans:
Two types of engine fans are most commonly found. One type is driven
by a belt and will use a heat activated clutch to be fully engaged. Regular
inspection of the blades to ensure they are not cracked is important.
A missing blade will cause severe engine vibration and cause serious damage
if they break off.
The other type is an electric type, mounted in a holder on the radiator.
These fans are activated by heat sensors mounted on the engine or in the
cooling system. A thorough inspection and operational
test of these components will ensure you will not get stuck with an overheated
engine this season.
Look after your vehicle and it will look after you!
Engine
Overhauls:
Most vehicles today are so expensive to buy that they are no longer disposed
of just because of a worn engine. Cars and trucks today are well built
and generally last much longer than the older versions.
We have an extensive background in the engine
rebuilding process. Previous experience in the machine shop business for
over 20 years, allows us to advise you on how to replace your worn engine.
We hand pick the supplier of our engines to best suit the need of our
customers.
Trust us to meet your engine replacement needs.
Engine
Repairs:
At times an engine can be repaired instead of fully replaced or reconditioned.
We have years of experience in engine repairs and rebuilding
and our technical knowledge can save you a lot of money by making the
right choices on just how to keep your vehicle running.
If your vehicle’s engine is making unusual noises or it's just
not what it used to be, call us for an engine
analysis.
Look after your vehicle and it will look after you!
Heater
Cores:
Heater cores are susceptible to rust and corrosion, just like the radiator
under the hood. Usually a smell of antifreeze inside the vehicle, the
windows getting cloudy and/or the floor on the passenger side getting
wet, is an indication of a heater core leak.
Call us today, for a heating system analysis if you
have any of these symptoms.
Look after your vehicle and it will look after you!
Power
Steering:
At one time or another, most drivers encounter a power steering problem
with their car -- anything from fluid leaks or noise to stiff steering
or hard turning after first starting the car. Normal driving eventually
causes your power steering fluid to suffer from heat, friction and electrochemical
degradation. The high pressure created when you hold hard turns is especially
damaging.
Your power steering fluid, which starts out clear, eventually turns dark
with age. Sludge and varnish deposits build up in your power steering
system and prevents the easy turning and responsive handling you expect
from your vehicle.
Our Power Steering Fluid Flush safely removes varnish and sludge deposits.
It is also the best way to remove wear metals that slowly grind away your
power steering's internal components, including the power steering hoses,
power steering pump, rack and pinion and/or gear box. Our Power Steering
Fluid Flush thoroughly cleans your vehicle's steering system and protects
it with fresh power steering fluid and conditioners that revitalize the
seal and O-rings.
If your vehicle's power steering system is showing any signs of contaminated
fluid, try this service before major and expensive repair work becomes
necessary. Let our certified technicians perform a Power Steering Fluid
Flush for you today.
Look after your vehicle and it will look after you!
CONSUMER WARNING:
UNDER NO CONDITION IS AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID (ATF)
TO BE USED IN POWER STEERING SYSTEMS. DO NOT ALLOW ANYONE TO SUBSTITUTE
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID FOR POWER STEERING FLUID IN YOUR CAR UNLESS
SPECIFIED BY YOUR VEHICLE'S MANUFACTURER! The pressure in a power steering
system during hard turns is much higher than that in an automatic transmission
under load. The ATF will become very hot under pressure and break down
much faster than power steering fluid. Once this electrochemical degradation
begins, your power steering pump and rack and pinion will be subject to
leaks, stiffness or complete power steering system failure.
Radiator
Repairs:
By the time a radiator is corroded to the point that it starts to leak,
it is time to replace it. Unless the damage is from a flying object and
the core is solid, repairs are unlikely to be a long term repair.
Look back at what the coolant flush section
has to say about why the corrosion process takes place.
Regular service and coolant replacement is the only way to prevent radiator
deterioration.
Look after your vehicle and it will look after you!
Water
Pumps:
The water pump on your engine is essential to keeping your engine cool
under all temperature conditions by transferring coolant from the engine
to the radiator for cooling. It is also subject to the same corrosion
factor as the radiator and heater core. The water pump also has a bearing
to lubricate and is another reason the coolant needs to be replaced regularly.
The most common water pump failure is due to seal damage caused by dirty
coolant with no lubrication value.
Look after your vehicle and it will look after you!